Publish Date: Monday, February 23, 2009
Location: Spanish Wells, Northwestern tip of Eleuthera Island, Bahamas
Coordinates: 25° 32.498′ N 76° 44.707′ W
Spanish Wells Harbor at dawn.
Spanish Wells is a serious town, known for it’s accomplished fishing fleet, excellent boat yards, and experienced pilots who lead all types of boats (from ocean-going freighters to cruisers) through The Devil’s Backbone to Harbour Island. We had the good fortune of meeting Jock (call sign Bandit), based on the high recommendation from our friends on Levity (Nordhavn 43-5). Jock was born and
Our pilot Jock (call sign Bandit).
raised on Spanish Wells, and has been navigating the Devil’s Backbone since he was 8. The Devil’s Backbone is a notoriously dangerous stretch of reef that curves across the top of Eleuthera Island. Most boats wishing to go to Harbour Island, come through Spanish Wells and pick -up a pilot to help them successfully navigate this 10 mile stretch of coastline. (See Ayla’s From the Pilothouse episode on The Devil’s Backbone.)
Abraham Lincoln's profile on the cliff. Can you see it?
These days, with more accurate charts, there is a debate among cruisers as to whether you really need a pilot. If you have calm seas, excellent light, and good nerves you probably don’t need one. However, for $80 you can hire Jock, relax and enjoy the entire passage, and learn more about Eleutheran history than you thought possible. When Jock isn’t piloting boats, managing the Spanish Wells mooring balls (5 balls @ $15 per night), or working on his farm, he is a part time archaeologist. He has been intimately involved in an number of archaeological digs around Preachers Cave (the initial landing area of the original Eleutheran Adventurers) and is actively working to have this area declared a Historical Heritage Site by the Bahamian Government. Within the last
Preachers Cave. Definitely a worthwhile hike.
year, they have discovered remains of Lucayan Indians near the cave that date back to about 500 A.D. This particularly interesting because it contradicts current thinking that the Lucayans didn’t make it this far north until around 1200 A.D.
When you first meet Jock he seems quiet and quite serious, but if you express some interest in the surrounding area, he’s pleased to share what he knows. His wife also makes wonderful homemade Johnny Cakes, which he shared with us the morning we made our cruise to Harbor Island. 🙂